What I’ve Learned About Sprinkler Installation in Utah (And What You Should Know Before You Dig)

Hi there! I’m Freddy Zahn—owner of Lawn Thumbs and founder of Local Sprinkler Pros. I started with just a borrowed mower and a handful of customers, and today, my team and I have been helping homeowners and businesses all over Utah build and maintain lawns they’re proud of.

Over the years, one thing I’ve worked on time and time again is sprinkler installation in Utah. I’ve installed systems in tight city yards, huge properties out in the county, and just about everything in between. I’ve seen what works, what doesn’t, and where most people go wrong.

This blog post isn’t a sales pitch—it’s a guide based on what I’ve learned. If you’re thinking about installing a sprinkler system or upgrading an old one, I want to help you do it right the first time. Let’s dive in.

Why Sprinkler Installation in Utah Isn’t as Simple as It Looks

When people think about installing sprinklers, they usually imagine it’s just digging some trenches and connecting pipes. But here in Utah, it’s not that simple. We have hard soil, sloping terrain, and hot, dry summers that push sprinkler systems to the limit.

Also, every city in Utah seems to have different water restrictions, pressure levels, and code requirements. And don’t get me started on frozen pipes in the winter. In short, sprinkler installation in Utah needs to be planned carefully if you want it to last.

1. Know Your Soil Before You Start Digging

Let me start with a mistake I see all the time: people not checking their soil.

In Utah County, our soil can be:

• Hard-packed clay that’s tough to dig
  
  
• Sandy soil that drains too fast
  
  
• Rocky ground that damages pipes
  
  

Each of these affects how you plan your system. For example:

• In clay, you might need shorter watering cycles more often to prevent puddling.
  
  
• In sandy soil, you may need longer, deeper watering to reach the roots.
  
  
• Rocky areas may require extra protection for your lines or rerouting pipes completely.
  
  

Always test your soil first. You can dig a few small holes with a shovel, or even better—call your local extension office. It’ll save you time and money later.

2. Understand Your Water Pressure (It Matters More Than You Think)

One of the most common reasons sprinkler systems fail—or don’t work as expected—is incorrect water pressure. If your system has too much pressure, sprinkler heads will mist instead of spray, wasting water. Too little pressure and you’ll get weak coverage or dead zones in your lawn.

Here’s how to check:

• Get a simple pressure gauge from a hardware store and test the outdoor faucet.
  
  
• Most sprinkler systems work best at 40–60 PSI.
  
  
• If pressure is too high, add a pressure regulator to the system.
  
  
• If pressure is too low, you may need fewer heads per zone or a booster pump.
  
  

Planning your zones based on pressure is one of the most important steps of any successful installation.

3. Zone Planning: The Secret to Saving Water (and Getting Even Coverage)

Each part of your lawn has different watering needs. Your front lawn might get full sun all day, while your backyard has shade trees and flower beds.

This is why zone planning is so important. A “zone” is just a section of your lawn that waters at the same time, controlled by a single valve.

Here’s what I usually recommend:

• Group sunny areas together so they get more frequent watering.
  
  
• Put shady or cooler areas on a separate zone with less frequent watering.
  
  
• Drip systems for gardens and flower beds
  
  
• Use separate zones for trees and shrubs that need deep watering
  
  

Trying to water your whole yard the same way leads to problems like brown spots, root rot, and overwatering.

4. Choose the Right Sprinkler Heads (Pop-Ups vs. Rotors vs. Drip)

I’ve worked with all kinds of sprinkler heads, and each type serves a specific purpose. Choosing the wrong type can ruin your watering plan.

Here’s a breakdown:

• Pop-up spray heads: Good for small lawns, flower beds, and tight areas. They deliver a fixed spray and are great for even coverage.
  
  
• Rotors: Ideal for medium to large lawns. They rotate slowly and cover wide distances. Less misting, better for windy Utah days.
  
  
• Drip irrigation: Best for gardens, trees, and shrubs. Saves water and keeps roots healthy by delivering water right where it's needed.
  
  

Mixing different types in the same zone usually causes uneven watering. I’ve had to redo systems because of this. Keep each zone consistent.

5. Think Ahead with Smart Timers

If there’s one upgrade I’d recommend to everyone in Utah, it’s a smart irrigation controller.

These systems:

• Adjust watering automatically based on the weather
  
  
• Let you control everything from your phone
  
  
• Save 20–50% more water compared to manual timers
  
  
• Are allowed in almost all cities with strict watering days
  
  

I personally use Hunter Hydrawise and Rain Bird ESP-TM2 for most installs. They’re reliable, affordable, and easy to use—even for non-techy folks.

6. Don’t Skip Backflow Prevention

In Utah, cities require a backflow preventer to protect the drinking water supply. But beyond being a legal requirement, it’s just smart.

If your sprinkler system sucks dirty water back into your house plumbing, you could contaminate your water with fertilizer, dirt, or worse.

We always install backflow preventers correctly and test them to make sure they’re functioning. Don’t cut corners here.

7. Plan for Winter Before Summer Ends

Sprinkler systems in Utah need to be winterized every fall. This means blowing out the water from all the pipes, valves, and heads using compressed air.

If water freezes inside the system, it can:

• Crack underground pipes
  
  
• Damage valves
  
  
• Burst sprinkler heads
  
  

Every fall, our team handles winterization for hundreds of homes in Utah County. Even if you do the rest of the system yourself, hire someone to winterize it properly. It’s not worth the risk.

Final Thoughts: Should You DIY or Hire a Pro?

I get this question a lot. Yes, you can install a sprinkler system yourself if you’re handy and have the time to do it right.

But here’s the thing: most homeowners who try to DIY end up calling us halfway through. Either:

• The layout was wrong
  
  
• Water pressure didn’t match the zones
  
  
• Sprinkler heads weren’t placed properly
  
  
• Leaks appeared a week after turning it on
  
  

If you want a system that saves water, runs smoothly, and lasts for years, hiring a pro is a smart investment.

Need Help with Sprinkler Installation in Utah?

If you’re ready to upgrade your lawn or want a sprinkler system installed that actually works how it should, reach out to Local Sprinkler Pros. Our team has decades of hands-on experience, and we’ve helped hundreds of homeowners throughout Utah County.

We’ll help you plan it right, install it right, and make sure you’re set up for success—whether you’re working with a brand-new home or improving an older yard.

👉 Call us at 801-565-1081 or contact us online for a free estimate.

We’re proud to be a local business that still works the old-fashioned way: honest work, fair prices, and no cutting corners.

FAQs – Sprinkler Installation in Utah

1. How much does it cost to install a sprinkler system in Utah?

Costs depend on yard size, number of zones, and features like smart timers or drip irrigation. Most residential systems range between $1,800 and $4,500. We offer free estimates so you know what to expect.

2. Can I install sprinklers myself?

Yes, but it takes time, careful planning, and some technical know-how. Many people start a DIY install but end up needing help. Hiring a pro ensures proper design, pressure, and water-saving setup.

3. How long does installation take?

Most home installs take 1 to 2 days, depending on yard size and weather. Larger properties or those with tough terrain may take longer.

4. What’s the best time of year to install a sprinkler system?

Spring or early summer is ideal, but you can install systems any time the ground isn’t frozen. Just make sure it’s winterized before the first freeze.